Wednesday, 15 November 2006

MissChief provides sustenance to a greedy sportsman


This evening a slightly seized up and beery footballer arrived at the door in need of a something hearty to soak up some lager and provide some much needed energy. Luckily for this handsome footballer I had a pot of something warming on the hob ready and waiting.

Ingredients:
Leftover chicken from roast - some
Oil - a splash
Coriander seeds -a few
Onion - 1
Garlic - 1 clove
Hot chicken stock - about 1.5 litres
Potato - 1 medium sized
Thyme - a sprinkle
Lemon zest - of 1 lemon
Turmeric - a teaspoon
Cream,milk, salt, pepper, chilli - as your taste dictates

Start by stripping the chicken and put to one side. Put a large pan onto a medium/high heat and heat the oil. Crush the coriander seeds in a mortar and pestle and toss into the pan, stirring for a couple of minutes. Add the onion, allow to soften and then the garlic. Turn the heat down to medium and add the chicken stock. Peel and chop the potato and add to the hot stock. Once the potato is cooked, briefly process the mixture but still keep some texture. Now time to put the chunks of chicken into the soup. Add the thyme, lemon zest and the turmeric (which lends a rich yellow colour). The cream, milk, salt, pepper and chilli can be introduced a couple of minutes before you serve so you have time to decide how much of each, if any, you would like. Serve with fresh bread or hot, buttered toast.

Despite soups not being "proper man food" this textured soup with fat chunks of chicken seems to have pleased the sportsman, and there hasn't even been call for pudding.

MissChief entertains her beautiful beau at St John

For a lunchtime trip to St John(known for "nose to tail eating"), we couldn't have wanted for better weather than we had; the brooding white sky and nip in the air made the buzzing bar and dining room of St John seem like the most welcome sanctuary for a pair of ravenous, cold carnivores. I arrived before my birthday-boy/lunch-buddy and felt a little uncomfortable waiting on my own as other tables assessed. Probably to work out why a)I wasn't dressed in standard issue City attire or b) why I was not dressed appropriately for tucking into entrails (...cream jacket). Still, I passed the
time pleasantly, scoffing the home-made bread and studying the lunch and wine menus to make sure I was about to make the right choices.

Birthday boy bustled in from the cold eager to tuck into a glass of wine, so we ordered a bottle of Cotes de Roussillon. I understand that the restaurant does a lot of wine sourcing around the Languedoc-Roussillon region so it made some sense, plus James (that's the one with the birthday) used to spend a lot of time near Perpignan on family holidays and it was wasn't ruinous (£18). The Roussillon wine turned out to be a very smooth and berry-ish both in appearance and taste. Our appetites didn't allow much time to swill our wine and contemplate its flavours so we trotted on to the first course, which luckily arrived promptly (as did all of our food and drinks). I kicked off the meal with the famous roast bone marrow with parsley salad, which was both mouthfillingly rich thanks to the bone marrow and mercifully refreshing thanks to the parsley salad. James nodded approval as he wolfed down his terrine with cornichons. I definitely had more fun poking the marrow out of the bones with my special tool.

In retrospect I think I would probably have liked a little longer to prepare for the enormous plate of chitterlings with radishes (chitterlings=small intestine of the pig) but again the richness was offset well by the radishes and some kind of lambs lettuce and I was surprised by how smoky and roughly textured the chitterlings were; not slippery as I had suspected. The generosity of the portion overwhelmed me in the end, but the half I ate was spot on. Meanwhile James set about savouring the most wonderfully flavoured roast Middlewhite pork, the crackling did not crackle but the caramel and deep pork flavours sang in the mouth. The mashed swede was stunning and it's an astonishing feat to turn a dense vegetable into such a light melting amber mash. I suspect we would not wish to ask how much butter was used...

Though the pudding menu looked fun and varied (Madeleines by the 1/2 dozen or apple sorbet with Polish vodka) we opted for a very fine pair of double espressos which created an illusion of digestion for a moment or two. For the two of us, the lunch bill was a fairly meaty £88 including a bottle of wine and service but worth it for a unique and ultimately entertaining winter's lunch.